The Rainforest Alliance
Unveils Its First Line of Certified Sustainable Chocolate with a Gourmet
Tasting in New York
September 22, 2004
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| A
gourmet tasting event in New York featured the sustainable chocolate
creations of pastry chefs from top restaurants.
Photo by E.Loeb/Rainforest
Alliance |
New
York, NY -- The Rainforest Alliance, an international
conservation organization that certifies tropical agricultural and other
products for environmental and social responsibility, unveiled the first
line of certified chocolate. The occasion was marked with a gourmet tasting
featuring the work of renowned pastry chefs.
"Cocoa
Cultures: A Celebration of Sustainable Gourmet Chocolates" was held on
September 21, 2004 at The River Café in Brooklyn. Pastry chefs
Ellen Sternau of The River Café, Jean-Francois Bonnet of Daniel
and George McKirdy of Veritas prepared sample creations with the new Rainforest
Alliance Certified Plantations Arriba Chocolate, a premium chocolate from
Ecuador. The afternoon featured chocolate banana marmalade cake, raspberry
mousse with tempered chocolate, chocolate hazelnut tarts and other gourmet
delicacies.
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| A
replica of the Brooklyn Bridge, signature pastry of The River Café,
using Rainforest Alliance Certified chocolate.
Photo by B.Venkataraman/Rainforest
Alliance. |
The
world's finest tasting gourmet chocolate is produced from cocoa that grows
in the shade and is tended by farmers who use small-scale, low-impact
techniques. Encouraging sustainable cocoa farming in tropical countries
and marketing the cocoa to consumers are effective ways of combating environmental
damage from large-scale, full-sun, chemical-intensive bulk cocoa operations.
Plantations Arriba Chocolate is distinguished by its exotic, jungle accents
and aromas,
a notable lack of acidity and bitterness, a higher concentration of cocoa
than sugar and longer lasting flavor than ordinary bulk chocolate.
Ellen
Sternau, pastry chef at the River Cafe, said of the Rainforest Alliance
Certified Plantations chocolate, "It is like nothing I've ever tasted
before. It has beautiful flavor and consistency. It also melts and tempers
wonderfully and has an exquisite color." Among her preparations,
Sternau used Plantations chocolate to create a chocolate replica of the
Brooklyn Bridge, The River Café's signature pastry.
 |
George
McKirdy, pastry chef for Veritas, at the Sustainable Cocoa Cultures
event.
Photo by E.Loeb/Rainforest
Alliance |
"Quality
in chocolate can only happen with complete control over the key steps
needed to unlock the cocoa flavor in the bean, and it starts by focusing
with the farmers on the post-harvest process," explained Pierrick Chouard,
developer of Plantations Arriba Chocolate and president of Vintage Chocolates,
the importing division of Echocolates.com.
George McKirdy, pastry chef at New York's Veritas, was involved in the
manufacturing process of Plantations Arriba Chocolate and noted that the
Rainforest Alliance Certified chocolate is "more fluid and viscous
than a typical chocolate. It has a nice balance, a nice feel on the palette,
and nice fluidity."
Native
Ecuadorian cocoa, from which Plantations Arriba is made, is particularly
prized for its flavor and aroma. In the early 1900s, Ecuador was one of
the world's leaders in growing and processing high quality cocoa for world
markets. The country's long coastal plain was covered by lush forest,
and cocoa farms flourished beneath the shade of the rainforest canopy.
But various plant diseases arrived in the 1920s and later, a series of
government disincentives for high-quality cocoa processing resulted in
declines in production and quality. The native cocoa grown under the species-rich
rainforest canopy became widely displaced by an inferior hybrid version
that is grown in deforested, full-sun fields. While the bulk cocoa may
produce a higher yield, the quality is usually inferior, bringing ever-lower
prices, requiring agrochemical inputs and providing no habitat for wildlife.
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| Through
careful selection and processing, cocoa farmers from Ecuador produce
the fine native Arriba beans for Plantations Arriba Chocolate.
Photo by Conservación
y Desarrollo. |
The
Rainforest Alliance and its Ecuadorian partner Conservación y Desarrollo
(C&D), a leading nonprofit organization in the Sustainable
Agriculture Network -- a coalition of conservation groups coordinated
by the Rainforest Alliance -- have worked to restore Ecuador's native
cocoa heritage since 1997, providing technical assistance for farmers
and offering training for producers and processors.
Thanks
to the efforts of the Rainforest Alliance and C&D traditional cocoa
farming is resurging in Ecuador. Individual small farmers in the C&D
program, who might otherwise be at the mercy of price fluctuations in
the volatile cocoa market, have organized into cooperatives with shared
processing and sales facilities, computing, marketing and financial services.
They have learned to properly sort, dry and ferment the beans using a
cooperative processing facility, which reduces the number of defected,
rotten cocoa beans and also happens to preserve the chocolate's anti-oxidant
properties and its potassium content as well as its gourmet quality, helping
them to command premium prices.
"We
promoted environmental education, we strengthened the farmers' organizations
and we helped women to organize themselves," said Mauricio Ferro,
co-director of C&D. "I have seen radical changes take place in
those communities -- the quality of life has improved greatly. They are
protecting water resources and reforesting."
Based
on the success of the Ecuadorian cocoa-growing communities, the C&D
model is being replicated within Ecuador and internationally. As a result,
the supply chain for high-quality, sustainable chocolate is growing and
the products are becoming increasingly available to consumers. "Thanks
to buyers like Vintage Chocolate, cocoa cooperatives that commit to total
quality know that there is a market that rewards them for their efforts,"
said Tensie Whelan, executive director of the Rainforest Alliance.
Plantations Arriba Chocolate is already available in many finer restaurants,
such as New York's Les Halles, Daniel, Waldorf Astoria and Picholene,
and leading
caterers and retailers including Zabar's, Zingerman and Freshdirect.com.
It will also be marketed to independent retailers, specialty and health
food stores interested in promoting natural, heirloom, unadulterated chocolate.
The chocolate bars bear the Rainforest Alliance Certified seal, a guarantee
to chocoholics that the cocoa in Plantations Arriba was grown responsibly
and that it tastes great.
Read
more about the Rainforest Alliance's work in sustainable agriculture.
Visit www.eChocolates.com
to learn more about Plantations
chocolate or to place an order.

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